City blog. Rome based.

Home-made style bakery in the ancient Ghetto: can’t miss it!


  • a roman square
  • an historical workshop
  • genuine and traditional goods
  • expert hands who know the secrets of the art fo bakery


If you choose the right ingredients, simply mix together to make something wonderful hardly can find elsewhere.

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The shabby window

Cet article est disponible en français.

Questo articolo è disponibile anche in italiano.

  • Where: Boccione traditional bakery, via del Portico d’Ottavia, 1
  • When: mon-fri. Near jewish holidays the assortment may change
  • Why: the Jewish community of Rome is a carrier of the Roman world. The Jewish-Roman cuisine is the real Roman one

Tram 8. Get off at the stop Arenula-Cairoli.

Take via di Santa Maria del Pianto, and go on up to the crossroad piazza Costaguti-via del Portico d’Ottavia-piazza delle Cinque Scole.


Donuts and mostaccioli

You will easily find the right place. Those who already know this place can’t forget it and it, and usually come back again. Those who have never been there will be inexorably attracted by the shabby window of a shop, which have no sign. In case of doubt, the constant line of customers (loyal customers or passing tourists) will clearly show you the right way.

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If the neighborhood itself, where time seems to stand still to the 50s, is not enough, when entering in the shop you will feel a sensation of returning to an era that no longer exists, and that many of us have never known. But trust me, revenue and abandoned all uncertainty: the only way to be happy is to order one of each pastry on sale!

The lovely square

Mostaccioli (a kind of hard biscuits with candied fruits), cakes with ricotta (italian special soft cheese) and visciole (a sort of sour cherries – delicious!), ciambelline (donuts), milky biscuits, tozzetti alla mandorle (hard almonds biscuits), ginetti (biscuits), pizza ebraica (pizza di Beridde)… Only jewish-roman tradition desserts, strictly kosher.

Ricotta and visciole cake
Ricotta and visciole cake

Some of its hard as marble is (only for those who have healthy teeth!), almost all heavy like lead (so pay attention to the final price!), but all of them are DELICIOUS. They are the kind of homemade looking biscuits and sweet, and with reassuring flavor, but that only here they are able to re-create every day, for decades.

At morning are churn out cornetti (croissants) and bombe (traditional pastries filled with egg cream), in the afternoon the bruscolini (salted and roasted pumpkin seeds). Any time is good to find some specialties to munch strolling in the old Jewish ghetto.


In this place the women are to  the command: from a long time the ladies in blue scrubs alternate themselves between the kitchen and the counter, and if you want to stay and listen, will tell curiosity and aspects of Judeo-Roman tradition. Religious aspects that blend with those more properly related to food. Details of everyday life or of history. Always without any unnecessary embellishments. Because the place is just so simple and popular, never affected. As cakes and pastrie.

My favourites? Ricotta and visciole cake: sublime. Never tasted so good elsewhere. But we must not be arrogant: try to do it again at home is useless, it will never be so tasty. Do not get groped by the cheesecake and chocolate: although it can not match the very good with sour cherries. And then the ❤ bruscolini (roasted pumpkin seeds, for non-Romans). Diamonds salt encrusted, and still warm in their paper bag: the perfect company during a walk in a spring afternoon. But be prepared to need a large amount of water (but you know, Rome is full of fountains!). They are a snack that creates a real addiction.

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